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Stanton Street Pizza—Great Neighborhood Joint on Manhattan’s LES

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Stanton Street Pizza - outside - RESIZEAfter an unplanned stop for a quick slice at Pomodoro on Spring Street, I got back to my mission of a multi-slice night on New York City’s Lower East Side. With plenty of time to kill before it was show time at the way cool Rockwood Music Hall, courtesy of good old Google, my first target was Stanton Street Pizza.

SSP is a tiny little space in a three-tenant corner storefront on you guessed it: Stanton Street, which quietly runs parallel between the more travelled Houston and Delancey streets. Their small room had scant seating and was decorated with Godfather and other assorted mobster things. On this hot late summer day, it was a sticky 82 degrees at 8:30pm. Without any air conditioning, it was so hot inside the place that I was having a major sweat and took my slice to the outside bench to eat.

Stanton Street Pizza - INside - RESIZEThe counter had several different slice offerings, but I got the usual Snob Special (a plain cheeser which for some reason was hiding below the counter) for a mere $2.00. Their sign said “Always Fresh,” and I must say that it was not only fresh, but it was quite good and tasty.

They served me a good-sized solid slice that came out at a pleasing temperature after about a two-minute reheat. There was some bubbly oil present atop the cheese and the sauce, and it was crisp on the bottom courtesy of a nice light even brown char throughout. I like the way this one folded.

Stanton Street Pizza - slice - RESIZEAlthough it was delicious going down, there was something lingering about the taste that I didn’t like, and I just couldn’t put my finger on it. Also, as I got near the end, the crust, which did taste a little flat, got a little doughy and was a bit of a workout to finish. And that aftertaste kept bugging me, and all I could come up with was some possibly from the garlic? Still, these minor flaws failed to ruin my pizza experience.

While SSP may not be a required New York City destination for the visiting pizza connoisseur, it’s a place that I would be proud to have as my local neighborhood pizza joint. In fact, they’d probably see me every day!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****Near Perfection
Stanton Street Pizza
127 Stanton Street (corner of Essex Street)
New York, NY 10002
212-533-4252
www.stantonstreetpizza.com



UPDATE: Bayonne NJ’s Naples Pizza—It Was Time to Retire

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Naples - sign - RESIZEOriginal Review: 07/14/14

PIZZA SNOB RATING ****1/2 Nearer Perfection

If you called Naples Pizza last week to order a pie, here is the recorded message you may have heard from a familiar female voice:

“Yes, I would like to inform my customers that this Sunday (12/20/15) will be our last night. Take advantage because Naples will no longer be around.”

The home of the “ultra-thin, get two for one on Mon-Wed-Sun pizza special,” is no more. The owner decided it was time to retire and shut down the oven. One of Bayonne’s true pizza legends is gone, and with all of the development going on in the Peninsula City, I’d be surprised to see a pizza joint show up in such a prime location.

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING     R.I.P
Naples Pizzeria & Restaurant
191 Broadway Bayonne, NJ 07002
201-437-8879
www.naplespizza.org


La Margarita—A Pretty Good Slice of Pizza on Manhattan’s LES

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La Margarita - outside - RESIZEExploring the Lower East Side on foot, I knew that sooner or later I would find a new pizza joint to sample. I eventually stumbled upon La Margarita on a darkened and cluttered section of Ludlow Street. With a name like theirs (which I had last seen at a popular Mexican restaurant in San Antonio) I for sure thought I’d be getting a “Margherita” slice like they serve on the other side of the East River in Brooklyn. However, it turned out that I had actually found another great neighborhood New York-style slice.

Inside, the tiny sparsely decorated room was cozily lined with brick walls and wooden floors. (A look reminiscent of Champion Pizza just a few blocks away in Soho.) The front window was invitingly lined with cans of fancy-looking tomato sauce.

La Margarita - inside- RESIZEAt the counter there were in fact some Margherita slices on display. However, when I asked for a “plain slice” ($2.00) I was surprised that I didn’t get one of those, but a regular NY one that was stored under the counter. Hmmm!

After a reheat of less than a minute, my slice was delivered at a comfortable eating temperature. It was very economical in both cheese and crust content. The char on the bottom looked good, but not great. Being only slightly brown, I was surprised that it turned out to be much crisper than I suspected. There was also more oil on top than usual. After diving in, my first reaction was that while packed together real well, LM’s slice just didn’t have anything special in the flavor department.

La Margarita - slice- RESIZEAny stranger to the City would love this pie as would someone in the neighborhood looking for something good close to home. But, while La Margarita’s slice is quite good and tasty, it is just nothing worth going out of the way for if you find yourself in the pizza capital of America.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****Near Perfection

La Margarita
151 Ludlow Street
New York, NY 10002
212-228-1233
[no website]


New York City’s Solo Pizza—Snob Finds a Perfect Slice in Alphabet City

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Solo Pizza - outside - RESIZEIt was a nice quiet late summer Sunday evening in Manhattan. One of those nights when it seemed like no one was out doing anything. They were either slow in getting back from the beach, or just home retiring early before another work week began.

The Snob was on holiday tomorrow, so I was free to venture about carefree and easy. My musical engagement at the downtown City Winery was still a few hours away. So, I found a pizza target across town on Avenue B that I know zilch about, but felt was worth a try. It was called Solo Pizza. An online review called Solo’s slice “the most underrated in the City.” Well folks, I am now about to do my best to change that—their slice is fabulous!

There once was a time that “Alphabet City” was a good place not to visit. But, times have certainly changed in the post-Giuliani Manhattan. I was surprised to find that Solo Pizza was even a swanky-looking place—both inside and out. They even have a logo! In fact, my initial fear was that it was too nice a place to make a great slice.

Solo Pizza - inside - RESIZESolo is just a small place with a few booths and tables. Their plain cheese slice was $2.75. After a quick reheat under a minute, I was presented a slice with absolutely perfect dimensions. Maybe I should start using a ruler, but they nailed the thickness of this one to a tee!  The cheese and tomato sauce were blended together just right, and there was a light visible coating of oil on top—just enough that it ran gently off the slice without gushing.

Solo Pizza - slice - RESIZEAfter easily making a perfect fold, I bit and entered a world of flavor extravaganza! I just wanted to hold it in my mouth to savor how good it tasted. I really think the oil did a lot towards bringing the flavor of this slice to life. It was seasoned just right and not overdone. While it took less than a minute to heat, it took the Snob even less time to eat.

I made sure to compliment my server on the way out the door. This was just a wonderful pizza experience that anyone within the vicinity needs to try. Solo makes a perfect slice of pizza!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ***** Sets the Standard
Solo Pizza
27 Avenue B (between 2nd & 3rd Street)
New York, NY 10009
212-420-7656
www.solopizzanyc.com

 


Juliana’s Pizza in Brooklyn–Yep, It’s the Real Deal

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Juliana's - outside - RESIZEIt only took three years for the Pizza Snob to finally get to Juliana’s Pizza, Patsy Grimaldi’s much-ballyhooed return to the pizza biz. Located underneath the Brooklyn Bridge, along with his namesake Grimaldi’s and the unheralded Ignazio’s, this last leg of the Brooklyn Pizza Triangle truly lived up to my expectations. It was fantastic.

As every Brooklyn pizza fan knows, Patsy opened Juliana’s back in 2012 on the site of the original Grimaldi’s. He had long ago sold the place, and it had since moved to a larger old bank building down the block on the corner of Old Fulton Street.

One Wednesday night, Ms. Pie, my boss from my real job and I, made a long traffic-snarled journey from Jersey for an early dinner at Juliana’s. Being early, the Pizza Angels were with us and we got both a parking spot right in front ($2 for 2 hours) and instant entry right through the front door without a wait. (When we left, there were at least 25 folks on line out front and no one waiting for Grimaldi’s.)

Juliana's - inside - RESIZEI had never been to the original Grimaldi’s back when it was on this spot, but I can’t imagine it being as clean, slick and modern-looking as this new place. It’s not a very big room, and probably fits no more than 50 at a sitting. The coal-oven and pizza-preparation in the rear open is open for full viewing and entertainment.

Juliana's - oven - RESIZEThis being Brooklyn, we are of course talking about a coal-fired Margherita pizza. I loved how the waiter first comes to your table holding cardboard cutouts of the two available pizza sizes: large ($20 for 18 inches) and small ($17 for 16 inches). The three of us chose to split a plain big one after first feasting on some first class salads (something you can’t get at Grimaldi’s).

The pizza was absolutely wonderful like I knew it would be. What stood out most to me aside from that delightful coal-flavored crust, was the amazing Mozzarella cheese that was so soft, fluffy and delicious. Biting in, the flavor rush of the tomato sauce, oil and cheese was simply mouth-watering. The crust on the bottom was a bit thinner than I expected, but had a good solid char throughout. It was good and crisp, and the scattered burnt spots on the bottom actually turned out to be the tastiest parts.

Juliana's - pie - RESIZEGosh—this place was so good and deserves to be on every pizza connoisseur’s bucket list. And of the three spots on the Brooklyn Pizza Triangle, Juliana’s gets my vote as the best of the bunch. Patsy, we are so glad you came back!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ***** Sets the Standard

Juliana’s Pizza
19 Old Fulton Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
718-596-6700
www.julianaspizza.com


L’asso Pizza—A Great Margherita Slice in NOLITA

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L'asso - outside 1 - RESIZEAnytime spent in the New York City area with Mrs. Pie means at least one dinner in Little Italy. While we never know where we are going or remember where we went, we always seem to have a satisfying dinner and a great time.

L'asso - outside 2 - RESIZEWe arrived in the city just before 6pm to secure some free street parking. While strolling south through the section of town known as NOLITA (North of Little Italy) we passed by an eye-catching pizza joint adorned with street art called L’asso Pizza. Totally unfamiliar to the Snob, I made a mental note to try and grab a slice on the way back to the car after dinner. I even skipped my usual cannoli desert to leave some space in my appetite.

The décor inside L’asso was quite spiffy and graced by the view of a brick pizza oven. They prominently advertised craft cider and root beer. Perhaps a bit more formal than a slice shop at this dinner hour, I interrupted their attempt to seat us and questioned the availability of slices since there was no pizza in sight.

L'asso - inside - RESIZEThe server replied that they stop slices at 7pm which was about 20 minutes ago. However, they had some left over, and he said he’d be happy to fire one up for me. He did issue a warning though that it would be a Margherita slice. No problem here although L’asso was going to have a tough act to follow after our incredible experience last night in Brooklyn at Juliana’s Pizza.

The L’asso slice was very thin, quite colorful and attractive-looking. And in the end, there was really little to complain about despite the fact that it had probably been on the shelf for a while. It was good and chewy and downright tasty. I did have a good chunk of cheese slide right off after one bite though—probably a result of having sat around so long. The cheese and sauce were both of good stock with the Mozzarella light and bubbly.

L'asso - slice - RESIZEL’asso may not qualify as a destination pizza place, but if you are in the mood for a good solid slice of Margherita, it certainly serves that purpose well. It did not disappoint.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****Near Perfection
L’asso Pizza
192 Mott Street
New York, NY 10012
212-219-2353
www.lassopizza.com

 

 

 

 

 


Sal & Carmine Pizza—New York Slice Perfection on the Upper West Side

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Sal and Carmines - outside - RESIZEThe Pizza Snob is a master at the art of working a pizza stop into almost any situation. With this having so far been a low-volume pizza trip to New York, a Saturday slice adventure was a must. In addition, with back-to-back Margherita experiences, it was time to return to the basics with a New York slice.

The regular-running weekend Manhattan street fairs have always been a source of entertainment for me and my travelling companions (today Mrs. Pie and my brother). This Saturday, the one on Broadway up in the 100’s made the timing perfect for a visit to Sal & Carmine Pizza at their scheduled 11:30 am opening.

Right at 11:30, I found the small room of S&C in the middle of a city block. However, the place was still dark except for some visible activity in the back room. After waiting a few minutes, it was obvious that today’s start was going to be delayed.

In the meantime, I had to attend to some serious business. I owe great thanks to the Starbucks Corporation for forever changing the Manhattan landscape by becoming a source of always available rest rooms!

Returning to the pizza joint, it was apparent that it was still going to be some time before the dough started baking, so I rejoined my crew further uptown at the street fair. The plan now was to have them drop me off at S&C on our way back downtown.

Sal and Carmines - counter - RESIZEHeading south on Broadway, we saw that the place was now open, and my team let me out to run in for my quick slice. Still not quite 12:15, I was surprised to see that the first pie of the day on the counter was already down to a mere two slices. I also had a chuckle when the Asian man in front of me gave the guy behind the counter a hard time for opening late. “I was tired” said the young man behind the counter feeling no shame.

At this point I was getting goose bumps since what I saw being dished out looked awfully good. Better yet, I noticed that Sal & Carmines was also a pizza-only joint—nothing else! There also was only serious pizza on display: plain, sausage or pepperoni—no silly stuff. They even immediately won my respect by giving me an oven fresh slice (a little steep though at $3.00) rather than one of the two that had been sitting there.

Sal and Carmines - inside - RESIZEWhile this slice would otherwise turn out to be absolutely perfect and delicious, I did pay the price for my impatience in not letting the oven-hot slice cool down: cheese slippage and a mouth-roof burn. But, oh what a slice! It was beautifully constructed with the best of ingredients and cooked in the conventional pizza oven to perfection.

One of the things that struck me about Sal & Carmine’s slice was how pure tasting the moderately-crisp crust was—perhaps one of the best I have ever had. A no-frills slice, it was not particularly seasoned, but the wonderful cheese and sauce sparkled on their own merits.

Sal and Carmines - slice - RESIZEOver the years, I have received repeated recommendations that Sal & Carmines made one of the best slices in town. I did my best to be unintimidated, and after trying one myself, there is no doubt that it truly is. A trip to Sal & Carmines is well worth it if you find yourself Uptown and West!

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Sal & Carmine Pizza
2671 Broadway (between 101st and 102nd Streets)
New York, NY 10025
212-663-7651
http://salandcarminepizzanyc.com

 

 

 

 

 


Big Ed’s Pizza—Oak Ridge, TN Pizza-Making Institution

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Big Ed's Pizza- outside - RESIZEAs we exited I-40 for the city of Oak Ridge, it was totally lost on me when my travelling companion said he wondered if everyone would be singing “Elvira.” To me, the city had always been the place with the nuclear power plant you pass on the way to Knoxville from Nashville. I had never before made the connection to country stars The Oak Ridge Boys who first cut their teeth there playing in front of plant staff and their families.

Over the years, several Nashville folks have told me about Big Ed’s Pizza, and I even saw a recent piece naming it one of America’s best pizza joints. I had it on my card to someday make a side trip on my way to Knoxville and recently got the chance. While, Big Ed’s is certainly an interesting place to visit (one of those if only the walls could talk places), it’s just too long of a side trip off the interstate (a good 30 minutes) for a pizza that’s just a cut above what you could get at one of the chains.

After what seemed like driving forever on the main road into town, we finally found Big Ed’s on the back corner of an old strip center. It was just before dinner on a Friday night, and when we arrived there were only four customers, but at least a dozen or so workers. It was apparent that they were getting ready for a big evening, and for whatever reason, it took several minutes before we received any attention from the work crew that seemed to be organizing itself.

Big Ed's Pizza- inside - RESIZEBig Ed’s works out of a big dark room whose walls are covered with cool interesting stuff (old photos and signs, UT football memorabilia and even a portrait of late Ed himself). Ed’s is also a charitable enterprise evidenced by the many plaques for the sports teams they have sponsored. The customary red and white tablecloths lined the wooden tables, and there is almost an entire wall of pizza ovens off to the side. There is really a lot of love for this place which is still run by Ed’s family, and the joint just oozes with character. It’s a shame that the pizza was not any better than it was.

Big Ed's Pizza- portrait - RESIZEMy bud and I ordered a large pie with half cheese for me and half sausage for him. It was 14 inches and ran about $15. They had about a dozen or so available toppings, some other menu items and beer. It took only about 10 minutes to get our pizza after the 5 minute wait for them to take our order.

As soon as our pie was brought to the table, it was obvious that this one had much more cheese and dough than was necessary. Despite there being some char on the bottom, it really was not very crisp. The end crust was overly puffy and doughy. Taste wise, it was fine, but nothing to set the world on fire. (I even tried the sausage which I must say did perk things up.) The pie did perhaps have more oil that I cared for. Like I said and my rating implies, it’s just a cut above what you’d get from Dominos or Papa Johns.

Big Ed's Pizza- pie - RESIZEAt the end of the day, there is nothing to rave about. Ed’s makes an adequate pie, but certainly not one special enough for such a long journey off the interstate. And it certainly is not among the best America has to offer. But, if you like old and crusty interesting places, it’s a fun one to visit.

PIZZA SNOB RATING   *** Better Than Dominos
Big Ed’s Pizza
101 Broadway Ave.
Oak Ridge, TN  37830
865-482-4885
www.bigedspizza.com



Joe’s Pizza—The Pizza Snob Finds a Perfect Slice on the Left Coast

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Joe's Pizza - outside - RESIZEHard to believe that it was over 10 years since I last visited the Los Angeles area. Finally making my way back, I had a feeling that I would be able to find some good NY-style pizza there. If both the Dodgers and Giants baseball teams could make their way to California, I figured that some New York City pizza masters could as well. My belief was confirmed when I found that Joe’s Pizza in Santa Monica served one of the best slices I have ever had!

Although I had a few area recommendations, I came across Joe’s in Santa Monica courtesy of Google. I later learned that there are four other Joe’s Pizza joints in Los Angeles which are listed at a separate web site (www.joespizza.it). There it mentions their owner is an ex-New Yorker who also opened the Santa Monica location. But for the life of me I was unable to find if all these are still under common ownership. Interestingly, the page for the LA stores carries a disclaimer that two of the four sites are not affiliated with Joe’s in New York. (Can you really trademark the name “Joe”?) To say the least, the Pizza Snob finds the connection between all these Joe’s joints very confusing.

Getting down to business, after a morning walk along the Santa Monica pier and beach, my Cali-friend and I were ready for an early lunchtime slice of pizza. (Surprisingly Joe’s opens at 10am. I guess that’s for the early morning beach traffic of walkers, skaters, cyclists and yoga enthusiasts?)

Joe's Pizza - inside - RESIZEJoe’s runs a small room with a few tables, chairs and a side wall counter from a storefront in a row of retail shops. It’s just a block off of the beach, and there are even a few tables out front suitable to the nice Cali weather. We walked up to the front counter where there were a few types of slices on display under glass. Joe’s serves mostly pizza with only calzones and salads otherwise on the menu.

Joe's Pizza - counter - RESIZEThe Snob ordered a plain cheese slice for the premium price of $3.00. My friend ordered a “Grandma” which wasn’t really a Grandma to me, but really a Margherita slice like you’d get in Brooklyn. (She absolutely loved it: “Super-fresh sliced Mozzarella, really light tomato sauce and perfectly-crisp crust”).

As for my slice, I was totally in shock about how perfect this it was. It was good as the one from its namesake in New York City. First off, it had an unbelievably beautiful and consistent char all the way through its bottom crust, making for a perfect fold and a crispy delight. Although it looked like it may be a bit oily, after letting it settle a bit, it turned out to be just right and fully flavorful. The cheese and sauce were fresh and delicious. They even served mine at just the right temperature to comfortably dive right in.

Joe's Pizza - slice - RESIZEOne thing I have learned about pizza is that you can’t just use good cheese and sauce to dress up bad dough. Joe’s certainly has gone through the task of making a super crust for its pie.

Although my compliment to my server brought a smile to his face, I am sure that they are tired of New Yorkers like myself telling them that they know what they are doing! They have certainly lived up to the reputation of their New York namesake. It doesn’t get any better than this!

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Joe’s Pizza
111 Broadway
Santa Monica, CA  90401
310-395-9222
http:/joespizza.com


Combo’s New York Pizzeria—A Tasty Slice of Pizza in the Center of Hollywood

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Combos - outside - RESIZEStill on my L.A. sojourn, my Left Coast buddy and I headed into Hollywood for some necessary business at the world’s greatest record store. Afterwards, we took a stroll over the stars on Hollywood Boulevard and made an unplanned pizza stop at Combo’s New York Pizzeria. In addition to its blatant name appeal, Combo’s looked the part both outside and in. It was obvious though that their menu was wider (gyros, breakfast, pasta and deli sandwiches) than just their featured specialty.

In business since 1980, Combo’s occupies some prime real estate smack dab in the middle of Tinseltown. A spot like this on Hollywood Boulevard is akin to being on Times Square in New York City.

Combos - counter - RESIZEIt was an early Saturday afternoon when we joined the good sized crowd, many of whom were watching the USC football game on the television screen. I stepped up to the counter and ordered a plain cheese slice at the hefty price of $3.95. (I guess you got to pay for that premium rent somehow!)

Combos - inside - RESIZEIt didn’t take long for my slice to come out of their real pizza oven. It was a good-sized one—somewhat bigger than usual. However, right off I could see that my slice looked way too white from a bad blend of cheese and sauce.  But, the seasoning on it was quite perky, and my slice wound up being quite tasty and enjoyable. Overall though, I would call the cheese and sauce average and nothing spectacular.

The crust had only a slight char underneath making the slice not very crisp and a bit floppy. It also looked spongy and tasted dry. Perhaps, a bigger dose of olive oil could have brought this guy to life. The extra seasoning did make for an interesting slice, and I wound up eating the whole thing and enjoying it. I did leave with a dry taste in my mouth.

Combos - slice - RESIZEI wouldn’t go out of my way for a slice at Combo’s, but if you are strolling along the stars on Hollywood Boulevard, it’s not that bad of a place to grab a quick one.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     *** ½ Working on a Good Thing 
Combo’s New York Pizzeria
6338 Hollywood Boulevard
Hollywood, CA  90028
323-871-1822
www.combosnypizzeria.com


UPDATE: Nashville’s Music City Pizza Closed But 12th & Porter to Reopen

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Music City Pizza outside - RESIZEOriginal Review: 02/10/14
PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing    

The recent announcement that legendary Nashville music venue 12th & Porter would reopen under new ownership made the Pizza Snob finally notice that Music City Pizza had closed back in February 2015 at the same time the music stopped. MCP had spent some big bucks finishing out the venue’s old bar and restaurant space and had operated there as pizza joint for about a year.

Sad to see any business close, but the news about music returning to 12th & Porter is much welcomed. Talk of MCP reopening in another area of the city do not seem to have materialized.

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING     R.I.P
Music City Pizza
114 12th Avenue N. Nashville, TN  37203
615-320-3754
www.musiccitypizza.com


Culver City, CA’s La Rocco’s Pizzeria—A Great Slice in the Downtown District

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La Roccos - outside - RESIZEMy next West Coast pizza adventure was the choice of my California pal in his home town of Culver City: a moderately-upscale movie business-centric community in the shadow of Los Angeles. The place was La Rocco’s Pizzeria, a small storefront restaurant in the somewhat swanky renovated downtown dining district.

It was a busy Saturday night and the area was packed. We parked in the free community garage and strolled over to La Rocco’s. At the proper urging of my friend, I avoided my bad habits of jaywalking and crossing at red lights. Once a New Yorker, always a New Yorker, I guess. But here, they ticket you for stuff like that.

My first tip about La Rocco’s is that when you are walking down Main Street, don’t get confused like I did by Rocco’s Tavern which you pass first—the pizza joint is still a few doors down.

La Roccos - inside - RESIZELa Rocco’s works from a nice clean and cozy narrow room at the end of the block. There are red and white checkered clothed tables inside and a few spaces to sit out front. We ordered our slices (always on their menu) at the counter in the back where there were an assortment of slices on display including the requisite plain cheese. A slice, salad and soda were the special price of $7.50.

During my short wait, I noticed their sign “Don’t ask for pineapples or chicken ‘because that just ain’t pizza!” A message true to my heart!

My initial observations of the pizza was that it would be good, and it sure was. Everything about it looked right: size, shape and the mix and blend of the ingredients. Tasting it didn’t change my opinion. The Snob meter though didn’t sense pizza perfection, and after devouring my slice faster than you can say Sony Studios, all I could come up with was that the crust was prepared a little too dry.

La Roccos - slice - RESIZEOtherwise, the La Rocco’s slice was a real beauty and is one I’d eat any day or time of the week. It was a true tasty treat. Good and crisp, there was a nice solid char on the bottom crust. The cheese had a light touch of oil on top, was delish and did not slip off. Seasoning was delicate and not distracting—just the way I like it.

There are some other Italian menu items to discover here as well. I enjoyed both my starter salad and my closing chocolate gelato, both of which were help yourself items out of the fridge in front of the counter.

La Roccos - sign - RESIZEIf you are around, go there by all means. You will enjoy both La Rocco’s and this neat little downtown Culver City district. La Rocco’s have a second location in Westchester. Not knowing where this was, I had a laugh when my phone app said it was only 4.4 miles away, but that it would take an hour and a half to get there! Now that’s LA for you!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     **** 1/2 Nearer Perfection

La Rocco’s Pizzeria 3819 Main Street
Culver City, CA 90232
310-837-8345
www.laroccospizzeria.com


Mulberry Street Pizzeria—A Wow of a Slice in Beverly Hills

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Mulberry Street - outside - REZIZEIt was starting to get dark on a Sunday evening. Although my long weekend in Los Angeles was coming to an end, there was still time for one last pizza stop. This one was a recommendation by my pizza-loving friend BP who had spent a few years living in the City of Angels. The place was Mulberry Street Pizzeria, a traditional pizza joint that I would soon declare to be a hidden gem among all the glitz and glamor of Beverly Hills.

Started over 20 years ago by a serious-minded pizza guy named Richie Palmer from the Bronx, Mulberry has four area locations: Sherman Oaks, Encino and two here in the Hills. Richie is the real deal and has brought a touch of the Bronx to Southern California. He has crafted a fabulous pizza and also offers an assortment of pasta dishes, salads, heroes and deserts, just like he used to make back home.

My LA running buddy and I found the tiny Mulberry storefront after nailing a parking spot on the busy and bustling Beverly Drive. While not Rodeo Drive, this is still a part of town where you will see more of the 1% than the other 99. The sidewalk storefront was actually just a façade next to the adjoining Pinkberry. The actual pizza joint was a short walk through a narrow passageway.

Mulberry Street - inside - REZIZEInside, the field of red and white checkered table cloths and long pizza counter looked like a Hollywood set transforming me back to the Bronx. The six or so copies of the Sunday New York Post looked like the perfectly placed movie prop.

About the only difference from the real New York were the walls full of pictures and messages from the Hollywood stars who had paid Mulberry a visit. Seeing a signed photo from my fellow Jersey Boy Frankie sealed the deal for me.

Mulberry Street - wall - REZIZEWhile we were the only customers as the weekend was coming to a close, the guys behind the counter were working on a few pies to go. My pal and I each ordered a pair of plain cheese slices at the Beverly Hills premium price of $3.50. We sat at a table in the corner, and were soon summoned after the slices received their quick reheat.

Although there were some assorted slices sitting in a tower on the counter, I didn’t do an inspection. As a result, I was a bit startled when I saw how unusually thin the slices were. Likewise, the tomato sauce looked deep, dark and rich. However, in retrospect, these wound of being my memorable reminders as to how wonderfully delicious Mulberry Street’s pizza is!

Mulberry’s slice was perfectly charred on the bottom and lighted coated with flavorful oil on the top. The cheese tasted wonderful, and the light seasoning on top added the perfect touch. That rich-looking sauce was luscious!

My pair of slices went down so fast, light and easy, that I was soon ordering two more! The lesson therefore being, don’t fool yourself. Just order a whole dang pie rather than by ordering one by the slice the more expensive way like my friend and i did. These slices were like Lays Potato Chips. (Remember their old ad about how you can’t eat just one?)

Mulberry Street - slice - REZIZEI must warn you though, its ultra-thin construction makes it a bit different from a perfect classic NY slice like I just had over in Santa Monica at Joe’s Pizza. But, don’t let that scare you away—this is one of the best pizza slices you will ever have. Let’s just call it unique and leave it at that! It’s good and tasty right through to your next slice!

Mulberry Street is a must for any pizza lover visiting the Los Angeles area. I myself can’t wait to go back.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Mulberry Street Pizzeria
240 S. Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, CA  90212
310-247-8100
www.mulberrypizzeria.com


Columbus, Ohio’s A Slice of New York—Tasty Campus Pizzeria in Transition

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A Slice of NY - outside - RESIZEComing back to Columbus for work duties, I continued my assault on the capital of the Buckeye State. I thought, why not look in the Ohio State campus area? You would think that out of 65,000 students, there would enough who refused to settle for chain pizza and instead support an indie.

Scoping things out, I looked further north on High Street from my last Columbus adventure at Mikey’s Late Night Slice, and came upon A Slice of New York.

Readers may have noticed how the busy Pizza Snob is usually a few months behind in his reviews. It was November 18, 2015 when I made this trip, and in checking the Google, I since learned:

  • This place was established in 1986 as The Flying Pizza.
  • They referred to this as their “Campus” location, and it closed on November 30th. According to their Facebook page, they will be opening another location on campus soon.
  • They also mentioned a location in the Bethel Center Mall. However, it is now called Buckeye Slice. It’s not clear if this is common ownership.

So, since there may be something still in the works for this joint, I will continue with a review rather than kill this one off just yet.

My work bud and I had dinner plans in the hipster downtown District. But, first I dragged him for a quick slice at Slice of NY. How could he refuse such a treat as well as the opportunity to be a part of serious journalism?

I had spent some time in Columbus in the 90s and was surprised to see that Slice of NY was near one of my old haunts: Used Kids Records, a great previously-loved music store. This part of High Street is still as hectic as it ever was. Finding parking on a side street adjacent to the busy main drag on this nasty rainy night was a chore.

This section of town is almost exclusively places where college kids can eat and drink. We found Slice of NY in the middle of the block in retrospect what seems to maybe have been a less than permanent location. Their sign just sat in the window, and the inside décor could best be described as “early concrete bunker.” Goes without saying that it was grungy inside.

A Slice of NY - intside - RESIZEThey sold four different kinds of slices (in both regular and Sicilian styles) for $2.50 to $3.00 each, and there was some obvious full pie action going on. Warning–this was not a place where you’d take a date after class—it was more of a place to get a pie to bring back to the dorm. (They did not deliver.)

There were a bunch of slices laying out. I went for my customary plain cheese while my mate got one with peps. The dude threw ours in the oven and did one excellent toast-up. He really made those suckers good and crisp. There was a nice char on the bottom, and the end crust nicely cracked when you crunched on it.

A Slice of NY - slice - RESIZEHowever, it was definitely chunkier than I like with way too much cheese. (My bud also said the pepperoni was too thick.) Also, I can’t say that this was the good-tasting high quality Mozzarella that you would get in New York City. The top was also way too white which meant short on tomato sauce in the all-important blending process.

In a strange way, it was kind of tasty. The oil was on top kept it from being dry, and the tomato sauce didn’t taste so bad either. There was great execution on this one, and with a lessor amount of a better quality cheese, this one would have scored much better.

A Slice of NY - sign - RESIZELet’s see if they resurface in perhaps a more pleasant location as well.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     *** ½ Working on a Good Thing

A Slice of New York
1812 N. High Street (between 14th & 15th Avenues)
Columbus, OH 43201
(614) 294-1011
http://osusliceofnewyork.com/
 


Joe’s Pasta-N-Pizza—Pretty Good Pizza in Weatherford, TX

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Joes - outside - RESIZEIt was Christmastime, and Mrs. Pie and I were visiting family in her hometown of Weatherford, Texas. (I sure am slow in writing these reviews, ain’t I?) We already had our now annual holiday tradition of a family gathering at Nizza Pizza, our favorite pizza place in town.

For reasons unknown, it had been a lazy week, and the Snob had ventured little outside of the family compound. However, while on a short afternoon hop with Mrs. Pie to get some groceries, a snack was in order. Always having a plan, we easily made our way to the closest pizza joint to home according to my Pizza Compass: Joe’s Pasta-N-Pizza.

I had noticed that Joe’s has been in Weatherford for several years now. However, assuming an affiliation with the mediocre Joe’s pizza places in Fort Worth, I never got real excited about paying a visit. (Readers may recall that there are several Albanian families running the Joe’s in Fort Worth and this one does appear to be connected.) Hungry and not wanting to come away pizza-less from this year’s Texas trip, I thought now was the time to give it a chance.

Joe’s is in a newer shopping center on the ever-expanding Fort Worth Highway. (Strange enough, two doors down in the same center is one of those evil Domino’s Pizza places.) It is a center that usually looks quite sleepy, and Joe’s was empty when we visited at this odd mid-afternoon hour.

Joes - inside - RESIZEInside Joe’s four walls was a large rectangular room full of table and chairs with an order/checkout counter in the back. All cooking apparatus were in the back, and there was no pizza in view. Fortunately, they welcomed my inquiry about getting just a plain cheese slice (on the menu at $2.00) at this strange time of day. Mrs. Pie had a craving for some garlic rolls so we were also able to add some more substance to my measly order.

It took quite a long time (maybe 10 minutes) to get the slice. Perhaps they had to start fresh at this hour, but their behind the scenes operations left me clueless.  In the meantime, Mrs. Pie really enjoyed her tasty g-rolls.

The slice came out looking rather odd slumped into a sunken plate. It was light in color, near the bottom of the Snob tomato sauce sufficiency meter. When Mrs. Pie joined in with a few bites, she agreed it was under-sauced. But, stop there! Joe’s slice wound up being tasty–a lot better than its appearance would dictate. It was served nice and hot throughout—just the right temperature and not scalding.

Joes - slice - RESIZEThe slice had a great char on the bottom making for a delightfully crunchy and chewy crust, despite maybe being a little too fluffy and airy. By traditional standards, it also carried too much cheese on top. This also didn’t seem to be the best-tasting Mozzarella that money could buy.

All things considered, it was a good little snack that I enjoyed. However, I don’t think I would go out of my way to go back. I do hear that the rest of their Italian-based menu is good, so I would not write this place off if you are in Weatherford. There is better pizza in town though.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing    

Joe’s Pasta-N-Pizza
Old Towne Shoppes
1115 Forth Worth Highway
Weatherford, TX  76086
817-341-2200
[no website]



UPDATE: Neapolitan-Certified Pizza-Maker Porta Via Shutters Franklin, TN Location

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Porta Via - outside - RESIZEOriginal Review: 11/28/15
PIZZA SNOB RATING **** 1/2 Nearer Perfection

Mrs. Pie and I saw this sad news a few weeks ago when we tried to make a gelato stop at Franklin’s Porta Via Italian Kitchen. Closed!

Porta Via - closing signAccording to the sign, the Nashville location on White Bridge Road will remain, albeit with a “brand redevelopment strategy.” We will see what that means, but indications are that they will still serve their fine certified Neapolitan pizza.

Let’s hope that those two cool-looking brick ovens in Franklin find a good home somewhere around town. (East Nashville?) How about one that would better give this fine Italian restaurant the appreciation it deserves. So many times we were shocked to see one of our favorite places empty.

We miss you already.

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING **** 1/2 Nearer Perfection

Porta Via Ristorante e Bar
21 White Bridge Pike #104
Nashville, TN  37205 (615) 356-0001
www.eatatportavia.com


UPDATE: More Bayonne Pizzeria Moves: Lorenzo’s Goes Back Downtown, Pizza Bella Closes and Then Lorenzo’s Closes Again

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Lorenzos Pizza - outside - RESIZEOriginal Review: 06/14/15
First Update: 08/27/15
PIZZA SNOB RATING  R.I.P.

A little late on this news, but I waited to let the dust settle. Well, at least I tried.

Lorenzo’s Pizza and Pasta moved back downtown to its former spot (the old Mario’s Pizza location) on Broadway between 15th and 16th Streets. After a move to the former Ronny’s Pizzeria & Restaurant location on Broadway between 29th and 30th, it closed these new uptown doors shortly thereafter.

A joint called Pizza Bella, which I never got to visit, had moved into the Mario’s/Lorenzo’s location and then vanished upon Lorenzo’s return. Was there a connection between these two?

Pizza Bella - outside - RESIZE

But, the story didn’t end there. As soon as I posted this news (after being back in Bayonne to check), Lorenzo’s closed again.

Maybe it’s time for Mario to return?

Marios - RESIZE

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING  R.I.P.

Lorenzo’s Pizza and Pasta
330 Broadway (between 15th and 16th Streets)
Bayonne, NJ 07002 (201) 344-1612
[No website]


Thin-Crust Pizza at Nancy’s Towne House in Rahway, NJ—Flavor, Flavor, Flavor

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Nancys - outside - RESIZEI was back home in the Pizza State planning a Friday night out with my baseball-loving brother. Sometimes I wonder whether I push him too far with my out-of-the-way pizza proposals. However, this night he was ready for adventure, and in the end this one was a home run out-of-the-park.

Short on ideas, my Googling fingers came across an article on nj.com about six Jersey thin-crust pizza legends. Two I had already sampled, and one was on the agenda for tomorrow’s trip down the Jersey Shore. But, one unfamiliar one was just a short hop away. My bro was game, and we hit the road for a Friday night dinner at Nancy’s Towne House in Rahway.

As evening approached, we arrived in Rahway noting the signs of a downtown rebirth. It did however look like they rolled up the streets everywhere but Nancy’s which we spotted illuminated on a dark street corner.

Nancys - inside - RESIZEThe apt-named Towne House has been in its old brick building since 1954. A front entrance leads you down into a small open room that sits beneath the sidewalk like an old speakeasy. A busy night, all the tables were taken, most by families. Our hostess inquiry got us immediate seating at the bar where we could receive full service. We took our seats, feeling right at home. In Jersey, the bar is the right place to eat a thin-crust pie.

Having hefty appetites, in addition to a large cheese pizza ($12.50) to share, we both ordered dinners as well: ravioli for my Bro and a chicken parm for me (Both superb by the way). Waiting quite a long time for our pizza, our hostess apologized for the small kitchen. I understood and appreciated the courtesy.

The time spent waiting was well worth it. This thin-crust masterpiece was really, really delicious. The crust was thin as advertised, and the slices were limp and not crisp. Nonetheless, along with the cheese, sauce and oil on top, everything about this pizza tasted amazing. It was just greasy enough to my liking with an oil that was lush and flavorful. The only minor flaw on this one was the almost afterthought dry and flaky end crust that got brittle and fell apart.

Nancys - pie - RESIZEI loved this pie so much that I knocked off my half of the eight slices in under five minutes. And my equally-delighted brother wasn’t too far behind me. If we didn’t have those dinners coming we would have for sure ordered another pie. We were both totally blown away by Nancy’s pizza. And I think that what sums it up best, is that it is simply one of the most flavorful I have ever had. The magical mix of its ingredients were masterful—a flavor explosion in your mouth!

Full of total pizza joy and buzzing with excitement, I engaged our bar hostess with an “OK, so who’s Nancy?” to which she replied “I’m Nancy.” After hearing my compliments galore, she then said she had worked here 10 year for the previous owner before buying the place. After sharing laughs and without outing myself as the Snob, I asked if I could take her photo and make her famous.

Nancys - nancy - RESIZENancy’s Towne House is one of the best unique pizzas that New Jersey has to offer. This is an absolute must on any pizza lover’s list. Do yourself a favor, give it a try and help make Nancy and her place even more famous than they already are!

 

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard
Nancy’s Towne House
1453 Main Street
Rahway, NJ  07065
732-388-8100
www.nancystownehouse.com

 

 

 

 

 

 


Fontana Pizzeria—Another Great Slice in Bayonne, NJ

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Fontana - outside - RESIZEYes, there are still more pizza places to visit in my hometown of Bayonne, NJ. On the recommendation of my younger brother, last time home, I set my sights on Fontana Pizzeria & Italian Restaurant. The twist this time would be my guest: our 87-year old Mom after a morning on line at the DMV to get her a state-issued ID card.

Fontana is uptown on Broadway in the middle of the block. It’s one of Bayonne’s long-standing pizza joints, and surprisingly, the more recently-established Goodfella’s brick oven joint is only a few doors down.

Fontana - counter - RESIZEWe got there a little after lunch time on a Friday and had the place all to ourselves. After ordering some cheese slices ($1.95 each) at the front counter, we took table seats in the back until we were summoned. In a wild mood, I even went so far as to order a square Sicilian slice in addition to my regular one.

While waiting, I checked out the menu. Like most of these Bayonne pizza joints, there are also other Italian dishes from which to choose. But, I must say that Fontana’s offers one of the widest selections (from Paninis to falafels) I have ever seen. It amazes me the talent and skill that it must take to manage such a large menu in terms of availability and ability.

Fontana - intside - RESIZELike a real pizza joint, the slices were out there waiting for us, and were soon ready after a reheat in the CPO (Conventional Pizza Oven). Getting right to the chase, what did Mom have to say about her slice? “Good, but little oily. Nice and crispy, but I don’t like when the oil drips.”

Fontana - slice - RESIZEI agreed with her 100%. As for the oil, this slice was definitely a dripper, but was just fine after a short drain before eating. Otherwise, everything was put together with perfection. The dimensions were on the money, and the great-tasting cheese and sauce were properly blended and delicately seasoned. There wasn’t really much to gripe about since it was also served at the precise eating temperature. But full disclosure make me want to say that maybe it could have been a little crisper, and there was a bit of cheese slippage.

It was fun getting Mom out of the house, and we sure enjoyed our slices together. Mom is a tough pizza critic who remains quite loyal to her favorite place San Vito. However, I could tell that she enjoyed her slice as much as I did mine.

Fontana - mom - RESIZEAdd Fontana to the list of can’t-miss Bayonne pizzerias! I really enjoyed it.

 

PIZZA SNOB RATING ****1/2 Nearer Perfection

Fontana Pizzeria & Italian Restaurant
1011 Broadway (between 49th and 50th Streets) Bayonne, NJ 07002
201-630-6460
www.fontanapizzanj.com


Vic’s in Bradley Beach—Making Thin-Crust Pizza on the Jersey Shore Since 1947

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Vics - outside - RESIZEThe highlight of my late winter trip back to the Pizza State was the annual Light of Day benefit concert in Asbury Park. While Jersey’s most famous musician, Bruce Springsteen, would be missing this year, Jersey’s world famous thin-crust pizza would not. This Saturday adventure down to the Jersey Shore would include a long overdue visit to the legendary Vic’s Italian Restaurant for some pre-show pizza.

Bradley Beach is just a short hop from Asbury Park, so I commenced my evening just a few miles south of the Boardwalk with an early dinner. Amidst a small downtown commercial area, the landmark Vic’s stood shining in its neon glow—just a big old bar on the corner of Main Street.

The sign on the window said “Tomato Pies,” which puzzled me a bit. I had heard talk of this kind of pie being popular in Trenton. But my advance knowledge of Vic’s gave me no suspicion that their pie would in any way be unusual. And after tasting Vic’s pizza, I don’t see the relevance of this label.

Two full parking lots foretold that things would be busy even at an early 5:15pm. Nonetheless, while a table would require a long wait, the Snob found an immediate space at the long wooden bar that offered him all the comforts he needed to enjoy the splendors of a Jersey bar pie.

Vics - inside - RESIZEVic’s has two big rooms of tables, chairs and booths. The décor of wood paneling on the walls and green-cushioned booths made it feel like I went through a time machine back into the Fifties.

Needing plenty of fuel for a marathon evening of New Jersey rock & roll, a large 14-inch cheese pizza ($11.70), the biggest of the three sizes they offer, seemed in order. The friendly barkeep asked if I was a newcomer to Vic’s and kindly gave me advance notice of thin-crust expectation.

I was soon shocked about how quickly my pizza came—it could not have taken more than seven minutes. Served atop a silver platform tray, the thin pie was cut into eight slices. Right off, I noticed that the end crust had crumbled bread crumb cooked into it.

While the crust was indeed thin, Vic’s pie was much thicker with cheese than most I have dabbled with in the thin crust category. This cheese heaviness even caused a few of my slice to collapse when I picked them up. The thin crust was simply not enough to carry the weight.

Vics - pie - RESIZEMost shocking however, was that right from my first bite, I did not care for the taste. Wow—there was just way too much garlic on Vic’s pie. It was so strong that it overruled everything else about this pizza. In case I was perhaps imaging something, when asked what I thought about the pizza, I confirmed through my waitress that this indeed was a garlic-centric pizza. Sorry, but this abuse of flavor distracted from what would have otherwise been a great thin-crust pie. I just didn’t enjoy it.

Additionally, while the crust was good and crisp, after a while, those embedded bread crumbs in the crust gets rather annoying. A minor, but unnecessary distraction.

One the good side, the cheese and tomato sauce were blended together well. With such good ingredients and solid construction, the garlic overkill created a huge let down for me.

Worried about who would have to sit next to me at tonight’s concert, I even stopped to buy a pack of gum to help kill my severe case of garlic breath.

Vics - sign - RESIZELike Nancy’s Towne House in Rahway, Vic’s also appears in the article on nj.com about six Jersey thin-crust pizza legends, placing it in some good company.  But sorry, folks, while a good pizza by most standards, in my opinion, it’s just not that special. The bar for Vic’s was set high, and they just didn’t hit it for me. I don’t really care to come back.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ****Near Perfection

Vic’s Italian Restaurant
60 Main Street Bradley Beach, NJ  07720
732-774-8225
www.vicspizza.com
 

 


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